Prune, by Gabrielle Hamilton
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Prune, by Gabrielle Hamilton
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NEW YORK TIMES BESTSELLERFrom Gabrielle Hamilton, bestselling author of Blood, Bones & Butter, comes her eagerly anticipated cookbook debut filled with signature recipes from her celebrated New York City restaurant Prune. NAMED ONE OF THE BEST BOOKS OF THE YEAR BY PUBLISHERS WEEKLYNAMED ONE OF THE BEST BOOKS OF THE SEASON BY Time • O: The Oprah Magazine • Bon Appétit • EaterA self-trained cook turned James Beard Award–winning chef, Gabrielle Hamilton opened Prune on New York’s Lower East Side fifteen years ago to great acclaim and lines down the block, both of which continue today. A deeply personal and gracious restaurant, in both menu and philosophy, Prune uses the elements of home cooking and elevates them in unexpected ways. The result is delicious food that satisfies on many levels. Highly original in concept, execution, look, and feel, the Prune cookbook is an inspired replica of the restaurant’s kitchen binders. It is written to Gabrielle’s cooks in her distinctive voice, with as much instruction, encouragement, information, and scolding as you would find if you actually came to work at Prune as a line cook. The recipes have been tried, tasted, and tested dozens if not hundreds of times. Intended for the home cook as well as the kitchen professional, the instructions offer a range of signals for cooks—a head’s up on when you have gone too far, things to watch out for that could trip you up, suggestions on how to traverse certain uncomfortable parts of the journey to ultimately help get you to the final destination, an amazing dish. Complete with more than with more than 250 recipes and 250 color photographs, home cooks will find Prune’s most requested recipes—Grilled Head-on Shrimp with Anchovy Butter, Bread Heels and Pan Drippings Salad, Tongue and Octopus with Salsa Verde and Mimosa’d Egg, Roasted Capon on Garlic Crouton, Prune’s famous Bloody Mary (and all 10 variations). Plus, among other items, a chapter entitled “Garbage”—smart ways to repurpose foods that might have hit the garbage or stockpot in other restaurant kitchens but are turned into appetizing bites and notions at Prune. Featured here are the recipes, approach, philosophy, evolution, and nuances that make them distinctively Prune’s. Unconventional and honest, in both tone and content, this book is a welcome expression of the cookbook as we know it.Praise for Prune “Fresh, fascinating . . . entirely pleasurable . . . Since 1999, when the chef Gabrielle Hamilton put Triscuits and canned sardines on the first menu of her East Village bistro, Prune, she has nonchalantly broken countless rules of the food world. The rule that a successful restaurant must breed an empire. The rule that chefs who happen to be women should unconditionally support one another. The rule that great chefs don’t make great writers (with her memoir, Blood, Bones & Butter). And now, the rule that restaurant food has to be simplified and prettied up for home cooks in order to produce a useful, irresistible cookbook. . . . [Prune] is the closest thing to the bulging loose-leaf binder, stuck in a corner of almost every restaurant kitchen, ever to be printed and bound between cloth covers. (These happen to be a beautiful deep, dark magenta.)”—The New York Times “One of the most brilliantly minimalist cookbooks in recent memory . . . at once conveys the thrill of restaurant cooking and the wisdom of the author, while making for a charged reading experience.”—Publishers Weekly (starred review)From the Hardcover edition.
Prune, by Gabrielle Hamilton- Amazon Sales Rank: #421212 in eBooks
- Published on: 2014-11-04
- Released on: 2014-11-04
- Format: Kindle eBook
Review “Fresh, fascinating . . . entirely pleasurable . . . Since 1999, when the chef Gabrielle Hamilton put Triscuits and canned sardines on the first menu of her East Village bistro, Prune, she has nonchalantly broken countless rules of the food world. The rule that a successful restaurant must breed an empire. The rule that chefs who happen to be women should unconditionally support one another. The rule that great chefs don’t make great writers (with her memoir, Blood, Bones & Butter). And now, the rule that restaurant food has to be simplified and prettied up for home cooks in order to produce a useful, irresistible cookbook. . . . [Prune] is the closest thing to the bulging loose-leaf binder, stuck in a corner of almost every restaurant kitchen, ever to be printed and bound between cloth covers. (These happen to be a beautiful deep, dark magenta.)”—The New York Times “One of the most brilliantly minimalist cookbooks in recent memory . . . at once conveys the thrill of restaurant cooking and the wisdom of the author, while making for a charged reading experience.”—Publishers Weekly (starred review)
About the Author Gabrielle Hamilton is the chef/owner of Prune restaurant in New York's East Village and the author of the New York Times bestselling memoir Blood, Bones & Butter: The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef. She received an MFA in fiction writing from the University of Michigan, and her work has appeared in The New Yorker, The New York Times, GQ, Bon Appetit, Saveur, House Beautiful, and Food & Wine. She has also authored the 8-week Chef column in The New York Times, and her work has been anthologized in eight volumes of Best Food Writing. She has appeared on The Martha Stewart Show and the Food Network, among other TV and she has won a James Beard Foundation Award for Best Chef NYC. She currently lives in Manhattan with her two sons.
Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved. Bar SnacksCanned Sardines with Triscuits, Dijon Mustard, and Cornichons1 can sardines in oil1 dollop Dijon mustardsmall handful cornichonssmall handful Triscuit crackers1 parsley branchOnly Ruby brand—boneless and skinless in oil— from Morocco.Buckle the can after you open it to make it easier to lift the sardines out of the oil without breaking them.Stack the sardines on the plate the same way they looked in the can—more or less. Don’t crisscross or zigzag or otherwise make “restauranty.”Commit to the full stem of parsley, not just the leaf. Chewing the stems freshens the breath.Radishes with Sweet Butter and Kosher Saltred globe or French breakfast radishes, well washed to remove any sand, but left whole with a few stems intactunsalted butter, waxy and cool but not coldkosher saltThere is nothing to this, but still . . . I have seen it go out looking less than stellar—and that’s embarrassing considering it’s been on the menu since we opened and is kind of “signature,” if Prune had such a thing as signature dishes.Keep the radishes fresh with ice and clean kitchen towels.Cull out any overgrown, cottony, spongy radishes; keep your butter at the perfect temperature; and be graceful on the plate, please.Garrotxa with Buttered Brown Bread and Salted Red Onionpeeled red onion, halved and thinly sliced into ribbonskosher saltbrown breadunsalted butter, cool but softened for spreading Garrotxa from Spainextra virgin olive oilfreshly ground black pepperthymeLiberally salt the red onion and toss with your fingers to break up the ribs. Let sit 10 minutes to weep out some of their bite.Spread bread with a generous amount of butter, wall to wall. Cut bread in triangles and arrange on plate.Lay slices of cheese next to bread.Heap a generous tangle of salted onion on the plate.Drizzle whole thing—cheese, buttered bread, and onion—with EVOO just before selling. Be light-handed with the oil—3 fats on one plate makes sense here but it’s about flavor and texture, not about ostentatious macho eating. Keep it accurate.One grind black pepper and branch of thyme to finishMarinated White Anchovies with Shaved Celery and Marcona AlmondsPer plate:1 scant cup thinly sliced, sweet, tender inner branches of celery, leaves left whole1 short dozen marinated white anchovies¼ cup Marcona almondsgood drizzle extra virgin olive oilbrief squeeze lemon juicelemon cheekfew grinds black pepperbig pinch parsley leaves, mixed into celery and celery leavesDeviled Eggs4 orders8 eggs, still cold from the fridge3 Tablespoons Dijon mustard∂ cup Hellmann’s mayonnaiseflat-leaf Italian parsleyBring large pot of water to a boil.Pierce the eggs at the tip with a pushpin to prevent exploding.Arrange eggs in the basket of the spider and gently lower them into the boiling water. This way they won’t crack from free-falling to the bottom of the pot when you are adding them.Let boil 10 minutes, including the minutes it takes for water to return to boil after adding the cold eggs.Moving quickly, retrieve 1 egg and crack it all the way open, in half, to see what you have inside. (If center has any rareness larger than a dime, continue cooking half a minute.)If thoroughly cooked, drain eggs, rough them around in the dry pot to crackle their shells all over, then quickly turn them out into a frigid ice bath to stop the cooking. It helps with the cooling and the peeling to let the ice water permeate the cracked shells.Peel the eggs.Cut the eggs in half neatly and retrieve the cooked yolk from each. Place the hollow, cooked whites into a container with plenty of cold fresh water and let them soak to remove any cooked yolk from their cavities.Blend yolks in food processor with mustard and mayonnaise. Make sure the bite of the Dijon can make itself felt through the muffle of the rich egg yolk and the neutralizing mayonnaise.Scrape all the egg mixture from the processor bowl into a disposable pastry bag fitted with a ∑-inch closed star tip, but do not snip the closed tip of the bag until you are ready to pipe. Fit the pastry bag into a clean empty quart container like you might put a new garbage liner into the bin—folding the excess over the lip of the quart—to make this easier on you.If you don’t already know, you can stick your middle finger up into the punt of the processor bowl while scraping out the contents with the spatula, to hold the messy, sharp blade in place.Remove cooked egg whites from the cold water and lay, cavity side down, on a few stacked sheets of paper towel to allow them to drain. Don’t serve the deviled eggs wet, please.When well drained, turn over eggs to reveal cavities and pipe the mixture in, more like a chrysanthemum than a soft-serve ice cream cone, please. Place on plate and finish with finely sliced parsley.Make sure that the whites are not frigidly cold from the refrigerator—allow the whites and the yolk mixture to shake off the intense chill of the lowboy. The whites get rubbery and hard and the devil mix has a congealed mouth-feel if you serve them too cold. Please take care.When there is more filling than egg white—use it to thicken the vinaigrette for poached leeks, as a condiment on family ham sandwiches, or stirred into the warm buttered lima beans on the veg plate.
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78 of 83 people found the following review helpful. Comprehensive yet concise By Jose Romero Restaurant cookbooks tend to be a peculiar sort. Tomes from Thomas Keller are beautiful coffee table books that are as gorgeous to look at as to cook from. Additionally, many of these books are marketed toward professional chefs and dedicated hobbyists. The techniques, equipment, and ingredient lists required make them inaccessible for the novice, if they choose to cook from them.Prune, named after the landmark NYC brunch spot headed by Chef Gabrielle Hamilton, is another massive entry in the restaurant cookbook category. However, unlike the books from Keller, or recent ones from such celebrated restaurants as Noma, Daniel, Eleven Madison Park, Coi, and so on, Prune takes a more direct approach.The cookbook is organized very much like a restaurant recipe book. For those not aware, most restaurant recipes are usually kept in huge binders, recipes are printed from chef's computer and the sheets are added to the binder in laminated looseleaf page holder, to protect from kitchen spills. These recipe books are essential for new cooks and old as they prepare the house recipes.In Prune, Gabrielle speaks to you as you are one of her cooks. The basic instructions also include scribblings in the margin, made in Sharpie marker, with her clarifications and addenda. The recipe yields are restaurant size, so you must adjust them if you want feed less people. Also, the book assumes that you know your way around the kitchen. Little details you may find in books for the home cook--preheating stoves and pans, exact pan sizes and such are missing.However, for a serious home cook or restaurant professional, Prune is a treasure trove of recipes. Chef Hamilton's fare doesn't really know much bounds--there are American, Italian, French influences in her cooking. Additionally, like most restaurant fare, her cooking is very rich. Chef Hamilton loves her heavy cream and butter.I've been pouring through the recipes and many look outstanding. I've also visited her restaurant a few years ago and went during their heralded brunch service. Like many I waited an hour or so, as they do not take reservations and the brunch seats are coveted. All her best brunch dishes are here, so no more waiting hours to replicate them at home.For food fans, serious home cooks, and professional, Prune makes a great resource to your cookbook library. Cocktail lovers will also find much to love here as their entire cocktail program is listed with recipes as well.My only complaint is that I wish Chef Hamilton had another restaurant and as such another cookbook to look forward to, but you can tell Prune is her baby from the careful and direct instruction she provides in this book.
25 of 27 people found the following review helpful. High Concept but Not Much Payoff By Nor Cal Steve I know people who just love this book and normally, I trust them. There's a lot of thought that went into this so I don't want to just bash what I perceive to be a sincere book, but it's really odd. In an effort not to make a "food porn" book, they've created something just as false and much more corny- "chef porn". The pages are supposed to be instructions for a line cook or sous chef, so there are lots of personal notes along with the vague instructions but there are also fake spills on the pages, fake binder holes, fake post it notes, fake handwriting and who knows what else. For me, it's way too cute and it's hard to get past the self consciousness of the whole thing. It's worse than the standard chef book they were trying to avoid in the first place.Because it's a pretend notebook for a line cook, there are no notes or context of any consequence. There's also no index.I don't work for Ms Hamilton so I'm not sure why I should make many of these dishes.I'm sure Hamilton is incredibly talented and there are flashes of it in this book, but this "fun" concept should have been stopped by someone sensible way before they started the design phase.
36 of 41 people found the following review helpful. absolutely not worth the money By nonegiven Oh, my gosh! Who would have thought? Vegetables, butter and salt work together. And that, dear reader, is the level of the recipes in this book: boring, uncreative, ordinary. What may be worse is that the author of this book comes across as having no concern whatsoever for the buyer. There is no Table of Contents and no Index making usage extremely difficult. The hand written notes are not helpful and seem to act as an excuse for poor directions. The little blotches of simulated spilled food on the pages are cutesy and interfere with such text as is provided. Yet this book made it into all of the "top 10 cookbooks of 2014" that I found. Perhaps the reviewers were taken in by the attempt to simulate a restaurant chef's recipe book, complete with notes to sous chefs, line chefs, prep staff servers and other employees. Well, it is a novel approach. But it's a big so what for the home cook. On the good side, the pictures are lovely. But give me clear directions, interesting recipes and save me the cost of printing glossy illustrations. My advice: Spend your money on "Mastering the Art of French Cooking", both volumes, if you don't already have thelm.
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